There are plenty of reasons to make your own soap. It’s less wasteful when it comes to the plastic and paper- packaged …
The art of making soap has been passed down through generations and today, is slowly becoming a lost art. Cold Process soaping requires the use of lye (Sodium
Hydroxide) which is a caustic substance that can cause severe burns if it’s inhaled or makes contact with skin. Lye was originally made from wood ash.
So let get started with complete guide on how to make Cold process soap
It is EXTREMELY important when soaping, to use a well-ventilated room, while using rubber gloves, goggles and a
surgical mask. Proper attire is
also a must, you should wear long
sleeves, long pants, and close toed
shoos. Just like with keeping
bees, proper attire is a must!
Shield •Surgical Mask •Stick Blender •Thermometer •Glass or Tupperware
Measuring Pitcher •Heat-Proof Stirring
Spoons •Measuring Cups & Measuring
Spoons •(1) Large Microwaveable Bowl
•1 Small Bowl•Electric Scale that
measures ounces and grams •Soap
Mold(s) –Silicone, Glass, Wood;
Homemade or Store bought •Parchment Paper •Lye
•Plastic cover for your workspace*
NOTE: Any supplies that make contact with lye should be devoted to
soap making! You cannot use them for
cooking once you’ve used them for
REACTIONCP Soap is made
by combining fats (base oils, either
fixed or carrier) and Lye Solution
(Lye + a liquid of choice) Each oil
type is made up of fatty acid
properties and contribute something
different to the bar of soap.
Knowing the recommended percentages to use in developing recipes is essential because you don’t want something too drying, brittle, moist, or unbalanced.
Saponification is the chemical
reaction between Lye and the fatty
acid molecules in the oil.
BASIC 3 POUND
•Olive Oil : 1 lb 15.5 oz•
Coconut Oil : 15.75 oz
•Castor Oil : 1.5 oz
•Distilled Water : 15.5 oz•Lye : 7.2 oz
•Essential or Fragrance oil of choice : 3 oz
•Exfoliate : 1 tbs(optional)
•Color : 1 tsp(optional)
Making your lye Solution and Melting
Down the base oils.
1.Carefully measure out the lye and the water.
2.When combining, ALWAYS pour the
lye into the water. Stir until dissolved and add thermometer. Monitor until solution is at 110 deg. F.
3. Remember to not breathe in any fumes,
and wear your protection equipment.
4.Measure out your oils and microwave
until melted. Stir and add thermometer. Monitor until solution is at 110 deg. F.
5.Measure out your color and your
EO/FO additives, so that they are ready.
Combine the Base Oils, Lye Solution and
1.Once both mixtures are within 10 degrees of each other and at or below 110 deg. F, you are ready to combine.
2.Place hand mixer in the oil solution and tilt to remove air bubbles.
3.Slowly pour the lye solution into the oils and slowly mix. Use the blender to pulse the mixture until you reach light trace. Should resemble the early
stages of pudding.
4.Mixture will start to thicken. Add in any EO or FO to the mixture. Stir with blender (do not pulse with motor, as this may accelerate trace).
5.Divide your base into other containers for color, or add color directly to the mixture. Stir until combined.6.Pour into mold. Try to work quickly during these
last steps because once trace has
been reached, your mixture will
be hardening more rapidly. Now
you are ready to pour.
De-Mold your soap, cut and let it
1.After 24 hours, you can
remove the soap from the mold.
Make sure that the soap is firm
before you remove it.
2.Cut your soap to the desired size.
3.Place cut soap on a paper bag and let cure for 4-8 weeks. With Castile soap, the cure time is 6 months.4.Soap is
usable after two days, however, the
lye is still active in the soap, so until the water is fully dissipated from the soap, the lye may still be active.
Now your soap is ready!
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